*Do you have an Exterior Wood Deck(s) that's in Good Condition and want to "Freshen It Up"?
*Is the existing deck wood: Pressure Treated, Mahogany, Cedar, Pine or other, "Showing Surface Ware" on Decking Boards / Frame, Stair Treads and Handrails?
*And you don't want to go through the "Costly Expense" of: Building Permit, Demolishing of existing deck, Dumping Debris, New Concrete Piles, New Materials and Labor if you don't have to "If Existing Deck Frame is Solid" !!!
My name is Joe Petralia. I have worked in the construction trade as a general contractor for 40 years specializing in many types of jobs, Big and Small. Below is a "Brief Description Check List of my Deck Inspections" to see if your deck, stairs or handrails qualifies for freshening up. Please Note: If I find that the existing deck is in "bad shape and dangerous", I will tell you it's not worth saving. THERE IS NO CHARGE FOR MY DECK INSPECTIONS, "Not All Decks Are Assessable to View" from the underside if it's close to the ground. I will then discuss and show video to my customer items that I have found that concerns safety of their structure (if any).
INSPECT ENTIRE DECK(S)
1). Check UNDERSIDE of deck for: Joist Hangers / nails, Carriage Bolts in posts, Lag Bolts into house wall studs.
2). Deck Header Board attached to house, All deck joists, Posts attached to deck and fastened to concrete piles with proper galvanized brackets / nails, Beams, Concrete piles (cracks), Check ground for proper drainage (under deck), Rotten wood, Cracked boards, Mold / mildew, Insects & critters such as: carpenter ants, wasps, bees, mice and birds just to name a few.
3). TOP OF DECK: Check all "Deck Boards" for cracks, Wood Rot, Shaky when walking on, Loose Butt Joints picked up from joists, Nail and screw heads are popping up, Sliding glass door for leaks (check "basement where sliding glass door is located" for leaks or wood rot), House Sill Rot / Insects, "Spaces between every decking board" for proper water drainage where dirt, grass, leaves accumulate and holds moisture, causing water to stay and rot wood.
4). Balusters loose, cracked, warped, nails popping out, Horizontal 2" x 4" top and bottom rails that balusters attach to, Top finish handrails, cracks, nails popping out, Posts where top and bottom rails connect to.
5). STAIRS, Stringers, Rise and Treads, Connection from stringers to deck frame, Posts for handrails, balusters, Concrete / Asphalt landing base where first bottom step stringer rests on.
6). MISCELANIOUS: Check Sliding glass doors / French Doors for any signs of leaks, water stains, wood rot or insect damage such as carpenter ants and termites.
REPLACE / REPAIR / RESTORE
A). Replace and Repair any boards that are ROTTED or CRACKED.
B). Install new screws or nails on Decking Boards that need reinforcement. Install Metal Joists Hangers to strengthen the frame structure.
C). Apply Exterior Wood Filler in screws, nail holes and cracks.
D). SAND DECK, STAIR TREADS and HANDRAILS down to clean, smooth wood.
E). Stain / Paint and / or Clear Coat (Sealer) on Deck Floor, Stairs, Handrails and to other areas customer prefers.
SOME OF MY SPECIALTIES ARE:
*Do you have the "appropriate spaces" between your floor decking boards for water drainage? If not, I can cut the "proper spaces" needed to drain water off deck for longer life!
*If deck "FRAME" which is attached to the house is in good shape along with floor joists are solid, then remove all existing wood floor boards / stair / treads / handrails and replace with new Composite Decking such as TREX, AZEK or KLEER (cellular trim).
*If your deck is "SHAKEY" and you want to stop the Deck Movement (especially when there's lots of people on it) I can strengthen it by installing new concrete pile(s) in ground with posts and beam the length of the span.
*Do you have existing stair(s) risers that are "too high"(maybe 7 �?�??�?½" to 8") for a family member such as a senior parent or kids? Why not have stairs replaced at a 6" Rise which is a very comfortable height for everyone, even you! It feels like you're walking on air?
*Adding a "New Section of Deck" to your existing deck giving you more square footage.
*Adding a "Second Set of Stairs for easy access" to your existing deck.
*Concrete "Stair Landings" keeps your stairs solid and dry. Built on premises with wood frame, rebar and poured concrete.
*Custom Built Gates to keep children and pets from leaving the deck, with handles and lock.
*If your top pressure treated "deck floor surface" is worn and /or has splits and the "underside" looks good, why not reverse boards to get more years out of them! Sand and stain.
*Installing Lattice around the crawl space with a door(s) to keep animals from living under your deck and a good place to store your garden tools, wheel barrow and hose (Lattice can be Pressure Treated, Cedar or PVC Plastic).
*Installing gravel under your deck and stairs for better drainage
*I can also Custom Design and Build (or work with your ideas) "NEW DECKS, Multi Level , Screen Room Decks and 3 to 4 Season Rooms from the ground up", Wood or Composite.
WOOD ROT
*Is there "Wood Rot" showing on the "Deck Header Board / Exterior House Wall"? Note: (the Deck Header Board is attached to the Exterior House Wall). Is there Mold and Mildew showing on house wall? If so, some causes of this could be gutters are clogged and water is over flowing on deck floor and house wall, no drainage spaces on deck floor, sun doesn't shine on that side and is always wet and damp, or who ever built the deck didn't take the time or knowledge on preparing the house wall with "correct" flashing, underlayment membrane, securing deck header board to house wall studs with correct fasteners, etc. Water finds its way between header board / house wall and at times under sliding glass door "threshold" rotting interior finish floor/ subfloor and may continue down into basement interior causing major damage to "house sill" which rests on the concrete foundation. If deck is salvageable and in good condition, I can brace existing deck and "disconnect deck joists and the header board from house wall where the "majority of wood rot is" in "sections" and rebuild the damage wall /sill with all new wood (pressure treated) to pristine condition, then reconnect the header board and deck floor joists back to house wall the correct way. Please Note: For work described above, there's no telling how much damage has occurred on the exterior / interior house wall during the year(s). My rate is $50.00 per hour FOR LABOR ONLY. Customer will be responsible for all Materials and debris removal at their expense.
I am Fully Insured, have Excellent References. I hold a Registered NH Business Trade Name. I work on a first come first serve basis, so when one customer is complete, I then take the next person on my list. Customer supplies all materials at their expense. If you have something that needs work and not mentioned in this letter, please feel free to contact me with any questions you may have by E-mail. IMPORTANT!!! Please leave your TOWN, PHONE # and a BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF YOUR JOB. Thank you for your time. . ...look forward in hearing from you. . ...Joe Petralia
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